I grew up on the East Side of Austin before it became expensive. My family is from the Texas-Mexico border and we cook Tex-Mex the way it was cooked before it was a franchise. Texas barbecue is the most serious barbecue tradition in America — the brisket smoked low and slow over post oak for 14 hours at the places that do it correctly — and Central Texas barbecue in particular is a pilgrimage destination for people who care about food. I know which East Side taco truck has the best breakfast tacos in the city, which barbecue joint is worth the line, and where to get the Tex-Mex enchilada plate my grandmother would recognise.

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