Jana Kowalski

I grew up in Kreuzberg — the Turkish-German neighbourhood of Berlin that invented the Berlin döner kebab, which is not a Turkish döner kebab and is not a Greek gyros and is specifically its own food that was invented in this neighbourhood in the 1970s. Berlin's food culture is built on immigration: the Turkish community that built the döner, the Vietnamese community in the east that built the bánh mì and pho scene, the Middle Eastern falafel on Sonnenallee that has been feeding the neighbourhood for 30 years. I take people to the food that built this city, not the food that gets photographed for travel magazines.