I'm Som — I'll Take You to the Bangkok Street Food Lanes That Feed This City

My name is Som. My family has had a boat noodle stall in Thonburi since 1971. I take visitors across the Chao Phraya to the side of Bangkok that the tourist circuit never reaches — the street food lanes of Thonburi and Bang Rak where the city actually eats. We start at my family's stall for boat noodles at 5pm, then move through four more stops over an evening: pad kra pao with a fried egg, mango sticky rice from a cart that runs from a converted tuk-tuk, grilled pork skewers with sticky rice at a stall I have eaten at my whole life, and a final cold Chang beer at an open-air bar above the river. I talk about Bangkok as a lived city, not a tourist attraction. The food is extraordinary and costs almost nothing.