Som Charoenwong

I grew up in Thonburi on the west bank of the Chao Phraya — the part of Bangkok that tourists cross the river from, see from the express boat, and never actually enter. My family runs a boat noodle stall that my grandmother started in 1971. I know every street food lane in Thonburi, which pad kra pao cart in Bang Rak has the best holy basil, and which floating market is genuinely local versus which one is built for Instagram. I take people to the Bangkok that feeds itself rather than the one that photographs itself.