I'm Jordi — I'll Take You on a Gràcia Tapas Crawl the Tourist Map Doesn't Show

My name is Jordi. I live in Gràcia and I have been doing the tapas circuit here since I was old enough to stand at a bar. The Barcelona that visitors see on Las Ramblas is not the city I live in. I take small groups through Gràcia on a Friday or Saturday evening — the way Barcelonins actually do it — starting with vermut at a bar where the locals read the newspaper, moving through four or five spots over three hours: croquetas, boquerones, montaditos, and the pa amb tomàquet that is always better when someone who cares makes it. I tell you what each place is and why it is still there while the neighbourhood around it changes. Good conversation, cold beer, real Barcelona.