I'm Aoife — I'll Take You to the Dublin That Invented the Full Irish and Is Now Reinventing Irish Food

My name is Aoife and I grew up in the Liberties. Dublin's food story has two chapters: the traditional food that kept this city fed through poverty and famine — the coddle, the full Irish breakfast, the soda bread, the oysters from Galway Bay — and the new chapter being written right now, where Irish ingredients are finally being taken seriously by a generation of cooks who grew up eating them. I take groups through the Liberties and the city centre across a morning: a proper full Irish breakfast at a café that takes it seriously (there is a significant difference between a good and a bad full Irish), the Moore Street market that has been operating since the 1700s, a stop for soda bread and Irish butter at a bakery in the Liberties, and a walk through the neighbourhood history. In the evening, I take you to a pub in the Liberties that serves a proper Dublin pint of Guinness in the way it is supposed to be served and where the food — Dublin coddle, beef and Guinness stew — is cooked by someone who grew up eating it.