Aoife O'Sullivan

I grew up in the Liberties — the oldest part of Dublin, the neighbourhood of the Guinness Brewery and the markets that have been feeding the city since the Viking settlement. Irish food has had a bad international reputation for 200 years and it is finally being repaired. The new Dublin food scene is extraordinary — the best Irish butter, the Achill Island smoked salmon, the Dublin coddle that my grandmother made — but the really interesting story is the street markets and the neighbourhood restaurants in the Liberties and Portobello that do modern Irish cooking without any pretension. I also know every serious pub in the city that serves food worth eating.