Mariana Fonseca

I grew up in Mouraria — the oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon, the Moorish quarter, the neighbourhood where fado was born. My family is from the Alentejo region and my mother makes bread and slow-cooked pork dishes that are nothing like the tourist food in the restaurants near Alfama. Lisbon is changing fast and the places I love are disappearing, but they are still there for now: the tasca restaurants that serve the day's lunch on a handwritten menu, the pastéis de nata at the pastelaria that has been making them the same way since 1946, and the Mouraria market on a Saturday morning where the neighbourhood still buys its food.