Fernanda Costa

I grew up in Santa Teresa, the hillside neighbourhood in Rio that artists and musicians have lived in for 100 years, before it became fashionable again. My mother ran a small bar that served caipirinhas and petiscos (bar snacks) until late every night. Rio's food culture lives in the boteco bars — the neighbourhood bars that serve cold beer, grilled chicken hearts, and bolinho de bacalhau (salt cod fritters) — and in the feira street markets that set up every weekend in every neighbourhood. The version sold near Copacabana is a performance. The real city eats elsewhere.